How to Install Board and Batten on the Stairs

How to Install Board and Batten on the Stairs

Makeover your staircase and entryway with this easy board and batten tutorial

Board and batten we meet again.

If you have been following along with us for any time at all you know we are huge fans of board and batten. 

We have installed it in multiple bedrooms, a bathroom, and even in my parent’s hallway.

So naturally when we were designing this staircase makeover I knew I wanted to install some gorgeous stained board and batten.

Installing staircase board and batten may seem intimidating because of the angles but the method we came up with really simplified the entire process. 

I can’t wait to share this method with you so that you can confidently add board and batten to your staircase too.

What is Board and Batten?

Before we start, let’s talk about what board and batten actually is…

Board and batten is a type of wall treatment that consists of wide boards (the “boards”) placed vertically with narrow strips (the “battens”) covering the seams between them. This design adds texture and visual interest to a surface. 

The height of the board and batten can differ depending on what type of look you are going for. It can be made from various materials, including wood, vinyl, and fiber cement, and is often painted or stained to enhance its appearance.

There is also a “cheating” way to install board and batten where you use the actual wall as the “board.” I have used this method in the past on many projects, most recently in our half bathroom makeover.

Using the wall as your “board” can save you a good bit of money but limits your finishing options to paint.

For this staircase board and batten project I really wanted to use stain so I had to install it the more traditional way.

Supplies for Board and Batten

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• 1×4 Oak Boards (header + battens)
• 1 x 11 x 1/2″ Oak Boards (wall boards)
• 1×2 Oak Boards (ledge)
• 1×6 Boards (baseboards)
• Cove Molding
• Half Round Trim (staircase)
• Scrap 2x4s
• Sand-able Wood Filler + Caulk
• 2″, 1-1/2″, 1″ Nails

Installing New Baseboards for Board and Batten

Whenever I install board and batten I also install new baseboards because standard baseboards are usually not wide enough for the battens to sit on. Also standard baseboards are usually smaller than I prefer baseboards to be. 

In this case I wanted to stain the baseboards and the original baseboards were made from MDF so staining those would not be an option anyways.

I removed the old baseboards and installed new 1×6” wood boards as our new baseboards. I like using regular wood boards to replace baseboards because they are usually cheaper than actual “baseboard” pieces.

The staircase has a stringer instead of a “baseboard,” removing this would have been a huge job so I had no choice but to sand it down. Luckily the stringer was made of wood so once it was sanded down I was able to stain it to match the board and batten.

Figuring Out the Staircase Angles

Figuring out the height and angles of the board and batten on the staircase felt like the trickiest part. 

Adam and I are not math minded people so when we do a project that involves math, we have to come up with a method that does not involve math…

Here is how we figured out our board and batten height and angles the no math way:

We started by marking the height we wanted the battens to be, which in our case was 70.” Next we cut two 2×4 boards to that height with 45 degree angle cuts on each end. So the longest point to the other longest point on the board measured 70.” 

Then we decided where on the top of the staircase landing we wanted the angle to start. We chose to have the angle start parallel with the first step. So we cut a 1×4 oak header piece to that length and installed it 70″ from the floor.

From there we used our two 2x4s to guide the top header piece as we made our way down the staircase. We nailed the header into studs using 2″ nails.

Once we got to the bottom of the stairs we needed to figure out the angle where the angled staircase header would meet the horizontal entryway header. 

To do this we held the angle header in place, and drew a vertical line where that header board would stop.

Then we held up the vertical board in place and drew a line where it intersected the angled board. We cut the two marks we made on the angled board and it fit very well! 

Installing Staircase Boards and Battens

For this staircase we chose 11″ wide boards and 4″ wide battens. I really love this board and batten calculator for figuring how many boards and battens you need. 

The angles and lengths for the boards and battens going down the staircase were all the same, 70″ tallest point to tallest point, with a 45 degree miter cut at each end.

We installed the boards and battens using 2″ nails into studs where they were available. When there wasn’t a stud we installed the nails in a crisscross pattern down the board for extra security. 

Use a level as you install each board and batten just to make sure they are still straight the entire way down.

I did sand the board and battens before installing them because I have learned from past experience that this is easier and less messy. Plus sanding them before you install them makes it easier to sand the sides of the batten boards

Adding a Ledge to the Board and Batten

While the board and batten was already looking amazing I wanted to take it up one more notch. 

I added a 1×2 piece of oak board on top of the header to add a little ledge to the board and batten. I installed this using 1-1/2″ nails from the top.

In the corner between the ledge and header I also added a small piece of cove molding. I love the curved detail of cove molding and I think it added a nice finishing touch to the board and batten. 

The cove molding is installed with 1″ finishing nails, but if I owned a crown nailer I would have used that. 

I also added a piece of half round trim to the bottom of the board and batten where it meets the stringer on the stairs. I added this trim piece because the battens were overlapping the stringer just a little bit and this piece of trim made it look like they weren’t. 

Whenever I am cutting these smaller trim pieces I use these miter shears from Amazon. The miter shears are super easy to work with and cheap. Plus they save me a bunch of time by not having to run out to the saw for every cut.

I did not go into in this post but if you need help cutting the boards around outlets and switches I used this method!

Finishing the Board and Batten

After all the board and batten pieces were installed I used sand-able wood filler to fill in all the nail holes.

Once the wood filler dried I sanded those areas with a sanding block. 

What I am about to say next is controversial, you don’t have to follow my advice, I am just telling you what I did…

We had some gaps in some places that were slightly noticeable so because I am using gel stain I decided to fill those gaps with caulk. If I use a thick, darker gel stain I have found that it covers the caulk just fine. Just be sure to apply the caulk only in the gap and wipe away any excess.

I also apply the stain one hour after caulking, I feel like it covers better the fresher the caulk is. 

They also make caulk that you can dye in your stain color but I have never used one of those. Again this is just what I do and I wanted to share it with you in case you need to do a little caulking of your own (it can be our secret).

Staining the Board and Batten

Like I said earlier, the entire reason I went with these real wood boards instead of just using the wall as the “board” is because I wanted to stain the board and batten.

I sampled three stain colors and ultimately went with the Hickory gel stain from Varathane. 

The color is rich, warm, and full of character. I applied the gel stain with a stain brush and wiped off the excess after I let it sit for a few minutes. 

To finish the board and batten off I applied a coat of clear polyurethane in a satin finish. The polyurethane protects the wood and will also make it easier to dust the board and batten.

Staircase Board and Batten Reveal

One final look at the before:

To say I am happy with how this board and batten turned out is a giant understatement.

I am in deep love with how much warmth and elegance it added to our staircase. The board and batten also made the walls look even taller and added some rich craftsman character. 

I will be honest and say staining the board and batten was risky and it is definitely not to everyone’s taste but I absolutely love it. 

Also I will say that if you are looking to install board and batten on the more budget friendly side I would choose a poplar or pine board if you are wanting to stain it. 

If you are looking to paint your board and batten and your walls are smooth, I would use this method to save a bunch of money. 

Now that this staircase board and batten is officially complete we are on the home stretch of this entryway/staircase makeover and I can’t wait to share the entire reveal with you all! 

Let me know what you think of this staircase board and batten and if you like the stain color choice.

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